How a trip meant for spiti ended up in Kasol #Lockdown

January, 2020

A winter Expedition into the wild and treacherous terrains of the Northern most parts of India namely Kinnaur and Spiti Valley: 

Yes, it sounded dangerous to us too before we actually planned on doing it on the very Winter of the year 2020. 

For a few weeks, we planned the whole expedition. Since we've been there once in one of the past summer; deciding a route wasn't that tough. Or We can say, This was the Only Route left available to our choice. Winters have their own motions you know..

So the basic plan was to travel to Shimla via Chandigarh from Surat (Gujarat) and then to Reckong Peo, Kalpa, Sangla, Chitkul, Nako, Tabo, Kaza, Kee, Kibber and Langza/Komik (If Possible) And to our Surprise, This whole journey turned out to be Different than we actually thought! Give us a chance to brief you about it.

DAY 1 "Passangers may I have your attention please!"

For the fourth time, through the same route, We boarded our Train from Surat Station all the way up to Chandigarh at 12 in the night of January 15th. 

The next 24 Hours in the same train, on the same seat may sound boring to you at first; But let me tell you, those majestic terrains of Rajasthan and Madhya Pradesh, all covered in Yellowish Mustard Farms surrounded by Aravalli Mountain Range would be a view of a lifetime. Metaphorically the mountain range seemed like a Guardian Of those farms amidst that foggy and cold atmosphere. 

Even after being on the same route for the fourth time, That journey never fails to amuse us, and may be that's why we all miss the journeys more than the destination itself.

To our Surprise, 24 Hours passed so smoothly and we were already on Chandigarh Station on January 16th at around Mid Night.

DAY 2: "The Himalayas from the Window of A World Heritage Site."

This wouldn't be the first time we're visiting Chandigarh or Shimla. But having heard of the utterly famous Toy Train for Shimla to Kalka was something that was being eagerly awaited.

That is when the Universe started modifying our perfectly made so called 'Plan' !!

Just when we planned on of getting the Toy Train to Shimla so easily; at 12.20 in the mid night, on Chandigarh railway station; The Enquiry counter ruined the first plan by informing us that there are no Train available anytime soon to Reach Kalka, from where we were supposed to get on the Toy Train. 

Slightly depressed by the news, We could see only two options in front of our eyes, which is to either rush to Chandigarh Bus Station (Which would take at least 45 minutes from where we were) and reach Kalka by bus to catch the toy Train or Get a hotel near by for the night and Simply reach Shimla by Bus the next morning. The former option was too uncertain and the later option means we won't get to see the Toy Train Ride. Still confused between those two options, Me and one of my friends randomly took a stroll on the nearly empty Station of Chandigarh to clear our minds. And who could've thought that Stroll wasn't just random but a part of the Plan that the universe was creating for us! 

At the edge of that really clean Station, we Saw a closed passenger train with only one person standing by it and we walked there to have a little chat with him. Turned out that the person was the Locomotive Pilot of that Train which was supposed to go to Kalka Yard for it's next journey and after listening to our situation, He offered us a ride in his coach as a favor and we took it! We made it to Kalka on time to get the 'only' Toy Train available at 4 AM to Shimla and it was a dream come true if it weren't for that little stroll and the generous pilot.

Guess, Life surprises you when you're traveling on your own, isn't it? 

So we hopped on to The UNESCO World Heritage site Kalka-Shimla Narrow Gage Toy Train which passes through 988 bridges & viaducts and 102 tunnels. When train traverse from Solan to Summer Hill you can witness real beauty of the route. As we were traveling in winter so all we could see  scattered village in the foothills of Himalayas and a layer of fog covering them as a white blanket. And after almost 5 hours of Joy Ride, We reached Shimla, Himachal Pradesh.

DAY 3: "Shimla wasn't the same anymore!"

I remember the last time in Summer of 2018 we came here at Shimla and this time it was quite different per se. Lesser Crowd, Cleaner (And obviously Colder) Air, Pretty White views. We could see idol of Hanuman in Jakhoo clearly from Shimla railway station surrounded by deodar trees and a layer of snow all over them. 

Old Shimla bus stand is just above Shimla railway station. We booked a room somewhere around the Bus Stand which actually did cost us a fortune but long train journey, all tiredness and the urge to take a hot shower got in way of finding cheaper stay and that cost us few more bucks. Well, At least We had a room with views of them Hills so Never mind. 

After a quick shower and breakfast, We hopped onto the Streets of Shimla. We were well aware of the fact that it is a touristy place and not the kind that we would like to explore, So we hunted few good places to eat and had our own Cliché Mountain Walk experience on the Mall Road like everyone else. Because why not? 

Asking locals for the most famous places to eat around is one of my favorite thing to do while traveling. You'd be amazed by the explanations and suggestions they give you. And when you finally hit that spot and like it, You just want to meet the person again who suggested you that place, just to give them a nice, long hug.
I remember on that evening, somewhere on the streets of Shimla we caught up with a local kid to whom we asked for his favorite place to hit Punjabi Food. To be honest, when we were having them Malai Kofta, Butter Naan and Dal Fry Rice- at the place he suggested, we actually wanted to meet the kid again and give him the hug I talked about before. 

Isn’t it appreciable how strangers give you a moment of happiness just by doing something as little as suggesting a good place to eat?

DAY 4:"When the Sea meets the Snow.."

Here 'the Sea' is metaphorically referred to 'us - The Gujaratis' (Surties)  who live by the Sea and have never witnessed snow before. 

The first experience of snowfall-

"We heard it from elders when we were kids,
We watched it on TV when we were in school,
We fancied it in our head when we were graduating,
And we witnessed it with both our eyes & our hearts wide open, when we turned 21."

And this magical concurrence happened on the same afternoon when we were hitting Shimla Roads. Not exactly in Shimla but a bit 15 kilometers away in a town named Kufri.

The moment we entered Kufri, to our Surprise the weather changed drastically within minutes. Right from sunny to cloudy with Mild Snowfall. Our lives' first Snowfall. Yes, it was as amusing as we thought it would be. Rather Magical. It sure as hell felt like a magician dropping white powder out from his Magic Hat and us kids smiling like anything by watching that. It was way too crowded for travelers on an expedition but who cares? Everyone was enjoying at their fullest, and so were we! Because hell yes, It was Snowing! 

DAY 05 :"किन्नौर देश में आपका स्वागत है।"

It was 3:30 in the cold morning in Shimla, but we were all set to hop in the Bus that would take us to The Mighty Kinnaur Valley (Finally!) 

To all the Bad Luck, It snowed heavily in Narkanda (A Station between Shimla to Reckong Peo, The Headquarters of Kinnaur) which closed the regular route to Reckong Peo and that turned our 7 Hours of journey in to 13 Hours. (Taking the other Longer Route) Changing to 3 different Buses, One from Shimla to Rampur, Another from Rampur to Jeori and the last one finally got us to Reckong Peo from Jeori. 

A ride to Kinnaur has always been fascinating. Be it Summer or Winter or any season, The visible change in the terrain of Mountains, turning from Green, Forestry to Light Brown, Rocky is nothing but soothing. Also, don't forget the Sutlej River while passing by. 

Past Jeori and wangtu, Bus runs through patchy and muddy roads. The moment you see Men made tunnels on those dangerous one way roads, You find yourself already in the Kinnaur Valley. The mountains around keeps getting bigger and mighty that you barely even see the sun up until mid day. Sitting by the window, the ups and downs on the roads, few strokes when on the bad roads which almost throws you out of your seat and the soothing Himalayan views outside, it never lets you get bored that I'm sure of.

Just like that 11-12 Hours passed by, and the Bus passed through the Hydraulic Power Plant of Karcham, which is one amazing human engineering we can say, within these mountains. From here, The roads split in to two, One leads to Reckong Peo and the other to Sangla, Chitkul.

As Peo got closer, the light brown terrain drastically changed to all white and blue. Oh the Snow! There was Snow Everywhere as long as you can look. And that is how we reached Reckong Peo, all covered in 5 feet deep snow!

DAY 06:"In the lap of the mighty Kinner-Kailash."

So the last evening when we reached here at Peo, The Bus dropped off us 3 in the Main Market since it couldn't go up to the Bus Station because of the Snow. 

There's one thing you should know before planning a Winter Trip in these areas, is that most of the Hotels and Homestays remain closed during heavy Snow period and the reason is obvious because Winter in these remote places are way different and I'd say way more pretty than those other parts of Himachal. (Shimla, Manali) As much pretty it actually is, It's Harsh, too. With very limited water supply (Because the pipes get frozen) and frequent power cuts, it becomes much difficult for the Hotels to comfort the guests (Which are very few in number as compared to Summer, Only except the crazy ones like us) 

With Heavy Rucksacks and Zero Experience of walking in 5 feet deep snow, we hiked up to the Market to look for a local stay and after around 2 kilometers of Hike, We found a Home stay. (Hotel Apple Resort, Reckong Peo) We weren't even surprised when we got to know we were the only Guests in that 3 floor huge Home Stay. The owner was this generous, Old Uncle who helped us settle down and had a little chat with us. 
(For the sake of information, He charged 500 per night for all 3 of us. Yes, Stays are cheaper in Winter and I'd request anyone who visits to not bargain with them since that is their only source of income these days) 

Every local we meet and tell that we came all the way from Gujarat in this bone freezing Winter gets surprised. 
"No one comes here in this time of the year"
"You guys must be crazy enough to take this expedition" 
"Oh my god, You're planning for Spiti!? That is not at all safe!" 
It was 5 in the evening, and we hunted this very famous place called 'Muskan Restaurant' for Dinner! (A cute local kid suggested)

Yes well, it gets dark a little while before 6 in evening, and you don't want to hang around in dark on icy roads and risk your lives lol. So it's a good advise to take dinner and get back to your stay before it gets dark. 

Here's another advise: If you're hunting for delicious Local Food, Muskan is the place you go to. Those were the Best Momos (Dumplings), Chowmin(Noodles) and Thupka (Local Soup) we had in our lives.

DAY 07: "KALPA- THE HAMLET OF KINNAUR."

Ever woke up to someone you love? Well, that must be cool and all, But let me tell you, Waking up to the White Peaks of Kinner Kailash Range flashing right through your room window; Nothing can beat that! 

Just after we had some snacks, We were already in a Car of a friend's friend which is going to take us to Kalpa. 

Now I've always believed that Kalpa is one of the best Village of Himachal Pradesh since the first time I visited it in Summer. But in Winter, oh! those White Roads and White everything; It made Kalpa nothing less than Heaven. Every similar place looks different when it's covered in snow. Deodar,  Alpine forest covered with snow, Empty roads, chanting of monks, The quietness and the freshness in the Air. Everything was so beautiful that I couldn't believe I was witnessing that with my naked eye! 

After stopping every 2 minutes to take another 50 pictures, We headed towards The Suicide Point. But  oh! Due to heavy snow fall, the car couldn't go ahead. Not until the JCB clears those roads. 

So now it was time for another new experience. Walking in soft, uncleared snow. It's harder than it sounds like, but it's as much fun as it sounds like! After A walk for around 2 kilometers, We were there at the Suicide Point, all covered in snow.

There it was, History was repeating itself. Just like last time when we were here, we were walking down to the point. Same route, Same Destination, Same Mountains; Just different colors of different seasons. From lush green to wintery White. From rocky roads to soft, snowy path. 

Isn’t the nature wonderful? 

DAY 08 :"Drive for Last village of India begins!"

Sangla and Chitkul are one essential parts of Kinnaur Valley. As beautiful as their name sound, those towns are no less than Heaven itself. 

To step foot in such a heaven, we, along with our driver (Since buses weren't available) hit the road at 9 in the morning for Sangla. It was around 2 hours ride, with high mountain views and rough terrain. A driver without experience shouldn't dare to hit these roads. Meanwhile our friend who was driving us, told stories of how brutal accidents have happened on these roads, and how people have asked for peace and prosperity from their god in various traditional ways. One of them was to build small temples on the side of the roads. To which there's another interesting story is related, which shades light on the beliefs of folklore about deity in the valley, religion and that those small temples were built in the memories of people who died in those accidents. Since then, the casualties have been decreased! Yes, seems unbelievable, but they believe it, and the numbers say it all! 

Another change in plan, and disappointment hit when we reached Sangla. We were informed that Chitkul roads aren't still clear yet, so going there is not feasible. The last village of India (Chitkul) still remains on our bucket list yet today. 

Well, at least we were in Sangla. The beautiful town located in the lap of the wild Baspa River. Everything around us was so calm. Temperature was less than -10°C and the chilled zephyr was freezing our bones. Before we know, we found ourselves somewhere in between the Sangla village, all covered in snow. 

Well it was time for some little shopping. Looking at all those locally dressed people, we couldn't help but get ourselves the Kinnauri Cap and a bright scarf. Also we got some souvenirs to take back home, because why not? Trying that Kinnauri Cap on our head was so much exciting I can't express in words (😉)
The barking of dogs, sound of wind, gossips of people and the music of floating Baspa River behind was calming our nerves. 

Kamru Fort, Shri Badri Vishalji Temple, Baspa River Bank etc are the places you can visit in Sangla. Climbing down the descending narrow trail full of 5 feet snow, we headed towards the river. The trail was sort of risky, took about an hour, but worth it when we reach down to the river. 

The moment we reached there, everything was just so Surreal , Divine , serine! For a moment there we all got lost into the thought of it, leaving everything behind. That place, that moment felt like a Home. A home we had to say goodbye to! 

We headed back to Peo with so much to be remembered forever. The next day was even more exciting, because we were going to Spiti.
That night's sleep was somewhat one of the most happy sleep of our lives, amidst the dreams of being in between the Land of Lamas- The White Spiti!

DAY 09: "Toughest decision of our life!!" (back to home)

On waking up, all we saw through window was fresh snowfall. The first time in life that we were not happy to see snowfall. Because  we wouldn't be able to drive down to Spiti in that Fall. Immediately we had a chat with our driver, who suggested us to wait for another day for the roads to get clear. Well, we decided the same and give a rest to ourselves for that day. Have a little walk in town and play in snow all day. Here comes the twist...! 

During That little walk in town, we met at least a dozen locals, who were shocked to hear that we still were planning for Spiti. Many of them suggested us to get back to Shimla, because the weather may not recover for at least few days. All that confusion about whether to wait or go back popped up unwanted questions in mind: 

"What if we get stuck in between? There would be no-one around for kilometers in that abundance to help us out" (Oh and forget about Network)

"What if we ??????????????? (Don't wanna' complete the question)

Just for the sake of backup, We inquired at Bus Stand for the Bus to Shimla. Which wasn't at a confirm schedule, too. If the weather gets clear we may get a bus the next morning or else no mode of transportation except Private Cabs. (Which were of course too costly that we couldn't afford) Everything was getting messed up. Nothing was going as per plan. We were so frustrated. Some people again advised us to take the Next Bus to Shimla which is leaving in an hour before it gets too late to get out of Peo. 

DAMN the Struggle to make sudden decisions! 🤦🏻‍♂️So confused... So confused... 

Part of me was saying I can face whatever the consequences. I'm wild enough to get through that.And part of me was believing that Locals have way more experience than I do in Himalayan Winters. So if they're suggesting otherwise, there must be a reason behind that! 

Despite the very urge to visit Spiti, Despite the whole big plan to visit Spiti, We tried to think rationally putting all the emotions aside and decided to get back immediately before it gets worse. (A gentle reminder: It was still snowing continuously since afternoon when we made that decision at around 4pm)

We Packed the bags, hopped on to bus without saying a single word since we made the decision! I remember, after sitting still in that Bus for about another hour, when the Bus Stopped at Karcham for a quick Tea, My Friend broke the silence saying us- "There's still a chance. We can still get off this bus, ask for a lift to Peo and Just try for Spiti tomorrow." 
None of us could reply to that! In all our minds, from the moment we took that bus, one thing that was going on- 

"That Even if we've made this decision, we knew it very well that we were going to regret it for the rest of our lives! "

That we were as close as Reckong Peo from Spiti and we couldn't visit anyway! 
But as 'Naina' said to 'Bunny' in 'Yeh Jawaani hai Deewani' sitting on the fort of Chittorgarh- 

" कितना भी ट्राई करो बनी, लाइफ में कुछ ना कुछ तो छूटेगा ही। तो जहा है वहीं का मज़ा लेते है ना।"

May be it wasn't meant to be. May be it wasn't calling us. And with dead silence, we got back to Shimla at around 3 in the morning next day.

DAY 10: "The Unplanned journey..!"

It was 3 in morning when we reached back at Shimla. Tired, bummed we found ourselves a room to rest. We weren't surprised with the fact that none of us could sleep. Because now we were without a plan. That has never happened before in all our travels, that suddenly we are out of a plan. We didn't know what to do for next 3 or 4 days. 

"May be we should just get back? If we couldn't go to Spiti, Why spend the rest money in other places? Just save them for next time." One of my friends whispered.At first that idea was so convincing. 5.30 in the morning, and we already decided to book ticket for Chandigarh. Before that we needed a good, hot bath. (Been 4 days since we took one last) 
And right after my friend came out of the bathroom, he jumped on bed with all his enthusiasm. We could see that spark in his eyes as he explained us a plan that he had in mind. 

"Why should we get depressed and get back like losers already? We still have time, we still have money. Just because one part of plan didn't go as well, doesn't mean we can't make a new plan?"
"Also, it isn't like we have seen everything else. Himachal is too vast to explore, so let's just do that."

That energy, enthusiasm, enlightenment brought us all back to life. He wasn't wrong. At the end we were travelers. Certain deviations are obvious when you plan a trip like this on your own. That shouldn't be a reason for us to NOT have fun. Immediately we packed our bags, as soon as we decided to explore Western parts Himachal, all the way up to Kullu Valley. 

At Shimla Bus Station, we picked whichever was the next Bus to Kullu. We still weren't sure where exactly we we're heading to, but we were positive that we'd. Very soon. There we go, with another dose of energy we were on a beautiful Mandi-Bilaspur Highway heading towards the unknown (at that time) destination. Long as it was, the journey was too beautiful to miss. From white wonderland, it's always pleasant to pass through different colors. 

We left Shimla at 12 in noon, and by 8 in the night, as Bhuntar arrived, we dropped off. We dropped off because on the way, we decided what our destination would be.

The Majestic, Spiritual & surreal Parvati Valley!

After 7PM the Bus to Manikaran from Bhuntar aren't available. Shared Taxi was the only option. We found few guys who wanted to go Kasol to share a cab with and within one and half hour, we reached to the Spiritual town of Manikaran. 
"The Gurudhwara Sahib of Manikaran" -Where we were supposed to live. After that long, lousy, crazy journey sleeping had never been so satisfying. 

DAY 11: "Rejuvenate yourselves with a natural hot water bath"

That was one hell of a spiritual morning in the Gurudwara Sahib of Manikaran. (A Sikh Temple)

Manikaran is located in the Parvati Valley on river Parvati, northeast of the kullu district of Himachal Pradesh. It is located 4 km ahead of Kasol and about 35 km from kullu. Manikaran is famous for its hot water springs and for pilgrim purposes. Gurudwara provides the travelers and devotees a place to stay and food made out of the Natural Hot Water in 'Langar' without cost. 

The hot water springs are converted into a pool inside the Gurudwara, open for everyone for a bath. Bathing here is known as a "balm for arthritis". The water is so hot that you will get dizzy after staying for long inside it. It was nothing like a normal bath, it immediately gave all those spiritual vibes, which we would probably get nowhere else in this world. 

'Seva' is the word in Indian languages, which means 'helping' Just as you're there, having food in langar, do not forget to help the staff in cleaning the kitchen, wiping the floor or whatever else they need help in. We did it and it would feel just as good. While we were doing the 'Seva' we got to know of some interesting things about the Gurudwara Sahib. I would've told you some, but I'd rather have you find them out by yourselves when you visit. A bit of a surprise wouldn't hurt anyone. 

DAY 12. "La Boheme... La Boheme..."

"The song that you bring with yourself from a vacation, will stay with you forever" 

'La Boheme' was that song for us from this vacation - A French Opera which depicts a love affair of 19th century between a poor poet and an equally poor seamstress. But for us, it was a love affair between Himalayan Valleys, Israeli Cuisine and this French Music that took our hearts. 

Sure it has be Kasol when we talk 'Israel' in Himachal Pradesh. An epitome Hidden inside the lush, green Parvati Valley for both Wild Nature Lovers and Party Animals. Hundreds of new age cafes, Millennial culture with Parvati River floating by. That is  something which brings out the best of Kasol. After having local street food for almost a week, a good plate of food is something we all needed, which took us to hunt for best cafes around Kasol. 

'The Evergreen Cafe' was one place we all found really cool. It has this cozy vibe and above average taste. An Israeli Platter with some cheesy lasagna seems like a paradise when you haven't eaten fancy food for days. 

We had our own little Stroll outside that afternoon.Isn't it fascinating just to wander around the hills besides the river when you have no destination in mind! Wandering near Parvati River gave that feels. Ironically, The thought of missing the Spiti Ride flew off our minds after having these amazing days in Parvati Valley. As the day ended, it was time we end this vacation and return  back home. 

But before we head back, a good drink wouldn't hurt anybody and that took us to 'Panjtara'- Another fancy cafe near the River. 
Somewhere in between the chattering of people and the sip of good whiskey, few words fell in to our ears, leaving everything else silent- 

"La bohème, la bohème
Ça voulait dire on est heureux
La bohème, la bohème
Nous ne mangions qu'un jour sur deux"

Which almost mean something like-

"Bohemian, bohemian
It meant we are happy
Bohemian, bohemian
We only ate every other day"

The tune of the song, the lyrics (Even if we couldn't get anything out of it, it just felt good) and the music of it hit hard. So hard that we knew we were happy. And Happy was all we were!

      "What we all learnt so far from this wild journey... In our own words..!"
       
         "This journey taught me to be flexible. Flexibility in life is necessary because life doesn't always work the way you want. If you become rigid in those times that will put you amidst immense struggle. Even corporates , governments and defense always keep their second option/plan or alternative approach. Here if you read between these words  -"alternative approach, options, another plan" all they are suggesting is 'flexibility.' So I learnt not to get obsessed with plans, and not feel regret if it doesn't work out as per plan. At the end it's all about enjoying the process, for we're not robots!"             
             -Poojan Desai

      Something that we all have whether we know it right now or learn it later is that we are adaptive to situations and environment around us. We are adaptive as individual as well as entirely as population. Being adaptive is very important trait needed to overcome obstacles during life and constantly improving innermost of us. Being adaptive helps us overcome boundaries seen by others, go beyond it and embracing ourselves, improving ourselves. We are not born intelligent but what helps us become more is facing new challenges and overcoming it with solution, we adapt through that situation. Anyone with strong will can adapt to any situation which is one of the best god given aptitude. We all have it in us, it’s just matter if we wanna embrace it within us or not.          
      - Chintan Rangatia

This journey had me realise that somewhere, somewhat, there is a plan made for all of us by universe for our lives. And may be when we take a bird's eye view on that, it doesn't seem bad at all.I've always believed that whatever happens in life, happens for good only and these experiences made that belief even stronger.

Eventually, In life, may be everything will work out just fine. It has to! So when things don't work out as planned, and you find deviations or surprises on your way; just remember, that these was a trip which was planned for Spiti, eventually ended up in Kasol, and it didn't disappoint me at all. May be all this was meant to be. But none of these mean that we take things for granted. We have got to give our best in all circumstances. Stopping is never an option. We couldn't have ended up in Kasol if we decided to stop and get back that day in Shimla.  So hop on a bus without a plan in strange circumstances but never think of returning back when you still have life within you.
              -Gaurav Shinglot

Blog by:
Poojan Desai &
Gaurav Shinglot (Special thanks to you for helping me in writing this blog.)