Discovering Myself Along Kheer Ganga's Winding Trails

I booked a bus ticket from Dehradun in Uttarakhand to Bhuntar in Himachal Pradesh one day prior to embarking on this adventure. I boarded the bus at 20:05 in Dehradun, which passed through the towns of Poanta Sahib, Chandigarh, and Bilaspur through the night before the morning light compelled me to open my eyes. I found my bus nearing the town of Bhuntar, winding through roads lined with landslides on one side and a queue of vehicles heading towards Manali and Kullu for a long weekend getaway. As we approached Bhuntar, our bus conductor informed us to switch to a local bus if heading to Barshaini and the Kheerganga trek route. I picked up my backpack and boarded the crowded local bus that only goes as far as Manikaran these days due to monsoon damage inhibiting travel further. I was forced to stand for over half the journey as the bus was packed with passengers and luggage. The bus smoothly navigated the narrow, landslide-prone road, passing Kasol before disembarking at sunny Manikaran, greeted by a light drizzle. I connected with fellow travelers also heading to Barshaini, the base camp for the Kheerganga trek, and we shared a taxi there.

Upon arriving in Barshaini after about 15 hours of overnight travel, I was famished and delighted to find thukpa to satisfy my hunger. I savored the hearty noodles and explored the area to find lodging for the night, locating an affordable but adequate hotel room where I could rest after the long journey, desperately needing sleep. While planning this hike, a solo traveler friend recommended accommodation at the Kheerganga summit for the following night. I contacted the person and booked a tent stay including dinner and breakfast, securing the receipt before checking into my room and dozing off.

My sleep was interrupted by strong winds and hail bearing down through an open window. Stepping outside, I saw the sky had turned dark as rain and hail pelted down heavily. I went for an evening stroll after the weather settled down a bit, wandering to Pulga dam where I snapped photos before returning to my lodgings. Settling into the hotel restaurant with a hot cup of tea, I enjoyed the chilly weather and distant views of Pulga village and the Parvati River flowing through the valley below as folk songs played. After savoring the tea and scenic surroundings, I retired to my room for the night, ordering dinner while delivered, hoping the weather would cooperate for the following day's hike but retaining some trepidation.

The next morning, I awoke to a beautiful scene with the sun still emerging behind the hills and the moon fading behind the opposite ridge. My spirits lifted as I took in the panoramic 360-degree views from my window before a hot shower. I packed my bags, changed into hiking attire, and went downstairs hoping to find the restaurant open, but it was still closed. Not wanting to waste any time, I set out to explore the bustling village of Barshaini in the early hours. Women did laundry communally, dogs roamed in packs, a cricket match was underway, milkmen returned from their rounds, and children ran around playing as the village went about its morning chores. After wandering the scenic village lanes, I returned to my lodgings to a now open dining hall. Fueled by a hearty breakfast, I prepared to embark on my first solo trekking adventure without a guide, following my own exploration.

I opted to hike the route through Kalga village perched above Pulga dam, taking in scenic vistas and charming homestays along the way. Wandering Kalga's countryside lanes, I began to follow the trail signs towards Kheerganga. For over 10km, I hiked alone with just the occasional sighting of other trekkers heading back and trailside stalls offering refreshments. Crossing babbling streams over little wooden bridges, and clambering over stones on uphill and downhill stretches, the unspoiled natural beauty left me in awe. After several hours traversing the peaceful path dotted with switchbacks, I started coming upon groups returning from their adventures - some solo, some large parties, others cozy couples. Farther along, landslides had damaged sections of the route, creating long waits as hikers traversed single-file. Cresting one final incline, the tiny village of Kheer Ganga appeared nestled amid towering peaks with the river Parvati flowing west in the distance.

After some time exploring the many camps dotting the area, I finally located my camp amongst the numerous camps scattered across the scenic settlement. The camp staff set up my solitary tent separately from the larger groups filling the other areas. Once settled, I eagerly ventured uphill to visit more camps and cafés, taking in the few remaining hikers who had reached the day before. Wandering revealed picturesque views and discovered a hilltop temple near a steaming spring. Capturing photos and videos to share the spectacular vistas of Kheerganga and its soaring peaks, I slowly came to understand the sizable scale of the campsite and winding lanes required to find my nook again. Separate male and female bathing areas are arranged with hot water from the rejuvenating hot spring. Seeking refreshment after a tiring hiking day, I indulged in the steaming bath, unwinding tensions as refreshing waters revitalized my mind and muscles. Snacking on provisions while admiring the natural beauty, songs accompanied my tea break before journaling beside my tent on green grass, also attempting self-portraits amid challenges.

As daylight waned, a constant flow of visitors from diverse locations began filling the camps, some energized, others fatigued yet all awe-struck by the marvelous scenery. I admired meeting varied travelers pursuing enjoyment, rejuvenation, or simply moments of serenity to be lifelong memories. Another attraction drawing me to Kheerganga was experiencing its famed night skies. I had heard wonderful tales of the celestial views. Alas, recent rains and overcast clouds veiled the heavens, though I still appreciate their beauty. Settling into my tent with an open view, I gazed skyward hoping for even a glimpse as darkness fell. To my delight, clouds parted just enough for stars to shine in their thousands across the vast inky canvas above. Over four shooting stars blazed trails in quick succession. I attempted to capture the spectacle digitally before clouds smothered the twinkling tapestry once more as if sharing a fleeting preview. Then the silvery moon emerged from behind distant slopes, bathing Kheerganga's lush alpine landscape in a magical glow. A flavorful camping dinner including staples and curries with kheer for dessert strengthened me for the night, retiring to the sounds of music and mingling in the dark.

The following morning, warm sun rays and chilly breezes roused me to take in the vibrant colors of the area as fewer visitors bustled about. What a life indeed, to behold such majestic surroundings while tending to morning routines. A wholesome breakfast of paratha and tea accompanied my photos of a wandering weasel. It was then time to begin my descent, heading back as I needed to return to Dehradun that evening. I opted to hike back through Nakthan village, indulging in similarly picturesque landscapes and scenery as the Kalga route through bridges, cascades, temples and blossoming apple orchards. Along the way, porters and equine carriers transported goods to Kheerganga.

Upon reaching Barshaini, I caught a shared taxi to Manikaran. From there, a local bus shuttled me for around three hours to reach Kullu, where I nibbled snacks while awaiting the later bus. This coach retraced the highway through Bilaspur, Chandigarh, and Poanta Sahib before Dehradun greeted me in the dawn, where I enjoyed the morning zephyrs one last time on my journey home.

P.S: Please fell free to ask about the trek.