A Winter Expedition to Spiti: A Tale of Adventure and Friendship

Nestled amidst the serene beauty of Vashisht, Manali, lies our offbeat homestay, a haven for adventure seekers and nature lovers alike. Here, we don't just offer cozy accommodations, but also thrilling Himalayan circuits on bikes and 4x4 vehicles, making every visit an unforgettable experience.

This March-April, excitement buzzed through the air as our closest friends decided to join us for a winter Spiti expedition. Led by Black Sheep Motto Adventures, a touring adventure company run by my husband Kshitiz (*who is also a co-host at the homestay), these expeditions promise adrenaline-pumping escapades amidst breathtaking landscapes.

Preparations began as our friends planned their journey from Delhi to meet us directly in Jibhi. While they made their way, I embarked on a hike down to Vashisht market to rendezvous with Kshitiz. Our trusted porter, Mr. Khamba, arrived right on time to take care of our luggage. However, as luck would have it, rain started pouring the moment we set off.

Navigating through the traffic in Vashisht market, we made our way to our main home to bid farewell to our families before heading to Jibhi. A pit stop near Kullu allowed us to upgrade the back seat of our vehicle (Gypsy) to a supremely comfortable couch seat, ensuring a cozy journey ahead.

Passing through the Aut Tunnel, we veered left towards the picturesque village of Jibhi. Despite the fatigue of the day, all we craved was a cup of tea, but with most shops closed or closing, we settled for chilled beers instead. The relatively warmer weather in Jibhi was a refreshing change from the chill of Vashisht, adding to our excitement.

Reunited with our friends, we shared stories over drinks and savored delicious food before calling it a night. Even as two of our friends arrived in the dead of night, the warmth of camaraderie enveloped us, and we drifted off into peaceful slumber, eagerly anticipating the adventures that awaited us in the days ahead.

DAY 1 JIBHI TO RAKCHAM

Rainy Adventures and Road Trips: Day 1 in the Himalayas

On our first day of adventure, it seemed like the sky couldn't decide whether to shower us with blessings or challenge us with a downpour. Undeterred by the weather, we fueled ourselves with a hearty breakfast and set out for Rakcham, eager to embrace whatever the day had in store.

With rain pouring down relentlessly, our concerns about road conditions grew. Jalori Pass stood closed, buried under a fresh blanket of snow, forcing us to navigate through the town of Anni via a lengthy detour. Despite the inconvenience, we couldn't help but marvel at the breathtaking landscapes unfolding before us. Rhododendron trees adorned the route alongside majestic pine trees, painting a picture-perfect scene that left us in awe.

As we wound our way through Kinnaur, each turn brought forth a new spectacle, with the weather and scenery constantly shifting. The journey towards Sangla Valley was both captivating and challenging, compounded by the confusion of the roads and minimal assistance from Google Maps. Nightfall only added to our navigation woes.

After a few wrong turns and a healthy dose of perseverance, we finally arrived in Rakcham. The quaint town wore a sleepy demeanor, draped in the aftermath of a snowfall-induced blackout. Despite the chilly wind and intermittent rain, our worries about the next day's plans lingered. Our itinerary included a visit to Chitkul and onward to Tabo, but uncertainty loomed.

Setting aside our concerns, we sought refuge in the warmth of a common room, illuminated by sporadic lights powered by solar panels. Dinner was a simple yet comforting affair of home-cooked dal, rice, roti, and mixed vegetables, filling our bellies and hearts alike. With the day's adventures behind us, we bid each other goodnight, finding solace in the promise of new experiences awaiting us.

DAY 2 RAKCHAM - CHITKUL - NAKO

Snowy Surprises and Roadblock Adventures: Day 2 in the Himalayas

Waking up to a serene silence reminiscent of snowfall back at our homestay, we were greeted by a different kind of magic in Rakcham - soft, powdery snow dancing in the wind. Despite the enchanting scenery, the absence of electricity, hot water, and heating left us yearning for warmth. However, our worries about road conditions were alleviated when we learned that all vehicles could still make their way to Chitkul, a relief especially with our Innova in tow.

After a hearty breakfast, we embarked on our journey to Chitkul, the final village before the Indo-Tibetan border. The snow-covered roads and breathtaking vistas made the bone-chilling cold bearable, with the overly sweet tea providing a much-needed warmth, even if it meant an extra dose of sugar.

With Chitkul explored and memories captured, our next destination was Tabo. However, our plans hit a roadblock as we approached Nako, where we discovered that landslides had blocked the roads ahead. Our hearts sank knowing Kshitiz's other bike group was stranded in Kaza due to the same reason. Despite efforts by the Border Roads Organisation (BRO) to clear the way, Sunday's rest meant the risk was too great to continue.

Resigned to staying put for the day, we settled into Zambala, a property offering stunning views of Nako Lake. As the sun dipped below the horizon, leaving behind a canvas of colors, our appetites grew. Fortunately, our friends surprised us with a delightful array of home-like snacks, from mini samosas to potato chips to sweet cake to soya chips, satisfying our hunger before a sumptuous dinner.

With hearts and stomachs full, we retreated for the night, grateful for the unexpected twists and turns that only added to the adventure of our Himalayan expedition.

DAY 3 NAKO TO KAZA

Exploring Monasteries and Birthday Celebrations: Day 3 in the Himalayas

As the sun peeked over the horizon, Kshitiz and I ventured out for a morning stroll through the picturesque town of Nako. Despite the frozen water pipes, our hosts ensured we had buckets of hot water for a refreshing start to the day. Today held a special significance as it was Kriti's birthday, and Mohit had arranged a surprise with a dry cake to mark the occasion. After a delightful breakfast, we gathered to cut the cake, savoring every bite of the delicious treat.

Our journey towards Kaza led us on an encounter with Kshitiz's bike group that was stranded in Kaza due to inclement weather. After a brief catch-up, we resumed our journey, making our first stop at Gue Monastery, renowned for housing the mummified remains of a monk. The atmosphere was serene as we savored tea and momos at a nearby cafe, soaking in the unique ambience of the monastery.

Continuing our expedition, we proceeded to Dhankar Monastery, steeped in history and nestled amidst breathtaking landscapes. Fried momos and seabuckthorn tea greeted us, providing a taste of local flavors as we explored the monastery's intricate architecture and rich heritage.

Arriving in Kaza, we encountered frozen water pipes once again, but the presence of electricity meant our electric blankets offered respite from the cold. Hungry for a taste of local cuisine, we stumbled upon a roadside cafe, manned by a single chef whose dishes surpassed our expectations, leaving us too full to walk straight.

Returning to our hotel, dinner was a modest affair, yet we couldn't resist indulging in creamy kheer for dessert. Gathering in the warmth of the common room, fueled by the comforting heat of the tandoor, laughter filled the air as we engaged in a spirited game of UNO, relishing the camaraderie of the evening before bidding each other goodnight, ready to embrace whatever adventures awaited us.

DAY 4 KAZA LOCAL

Exploring Ancient Monasteries and Sending Postcards: Day 4 in the Himalayas

With anticipation bubbling in the crisp morning air, we embarked on a journey to explore some of the gems nestled in the Himalayan terrain. Our first stop was the iconic Key Monastery, perched majestically atop a hill, offering breathtaking views of the surrounding landscape. Stepping into its ancient halls, we were enveloped in a sense of tranquility, soaking in the spiritual ambiance of this revered site.

Next on our itinerary was the thrilling Chicham Bridge, an engineering marvel suspended high above a deep gorge, providing an adrenaline-inducing experience as we crossed its sturdy expanse. The rush of wind and the panoramic vistas below left us exhilarated and in awe of human ingenuity.

Our adventure continued as we journeyed to Langza, a quaint village nestled amidst towering mountains, where time seemed to stand still. The peaceful serenity of this remote settlement was a welcome respite, offering us a glimpse into a way of life untouched by modernity.

Our exploration took us further to Komic, known as one of the highest inhabited villages in the world. The rugged beauty of its surroundings and the warm hospitality of its inhabitants left an indelible mark on our hearts, as we marveled at the resilience of those who call this remote corner of the world home.

Our final destination for the day was Hikkim, home to the world's highest post office. Here, amidst the breathtaking Himalayan vistas, our friends indulged in the timeless tradition of sending postcards, a tangible reminder of our unforgettable journey through the mountains.

Returning to our hotel, hearts full of memories and postcards in hand, we gathered for a hearty dinner followed by a few spirited rounds of UNO.

PS: In this route, we also spotted Ibex and Blue Sheep.

DAY 5: KAZA TO KALPA

A Serene Retreat and Warm Welcomes: Day 5 in the Himalayas

With the sun casting its gentle rays upon the mountainside, we awoke to a pleasant surprise – buckets of hot water waiting for us in each room. The thoughtful staff had ensured our comfort by keeping heating rods in their spare water containers overnight, a gesture that warmed our hearts as much as it warmed our bodies.

After a hearty breakfast, we embarked on our journey towards Kalpa, our spirits high and anticipation building for the adventures that lay ahead. Adapting our itinerary to accommodate the challenges faced on the road earlier in our journey proved to be a blessing in disguise, as Kalpa welcomed us with open arms and breathtaking beauty.

As we wound our way along the scenic roads, passing through Reckong Peo, we were captivated by the mesmerizing vistas that unfolded before us. Arriving in Kalpa, our hotel nestled in the heart of the valley offered unparalleled views of the surrounding landscape. With electricity, running hot water, and the promise of a crackling bonfire, we felt truly pampered and grateful for the comforts of home amidst the rugged terrain.

Taking a leisurely evening stroll, we soaked in the tranquility of Kalpa, the crisp mountain air invigorating our senses. As dusk settled in, we gathered outside, the flickering flames of the bonfire casting a warm glow upon our faces. The staff had prepared an array of delectable snacks, adding to the cozy ambiance of the evening.

After a satisfying dinner, we retired to our rooms, lulled into a peaceful slumber by the combination of a hot shower, delicious food, and the crisp mountain air. As we drifted off to sleep, contentment washed over us, grateful for the simple joys of travel and the beauty of the Himalayas that surrounded us.

DAY 6 & 7: KALPA TO BAHU & TIRTHAN

From Temples to Riverside Retreats: Wrapping Up Our Himalayan Adventure

The sun rose on our final day of adventure, casting its warm rays upon us as we prepared for the journey ahead. After a hearty breakfast, we paid a visit to the local temple, immersing ourselves in the rich culture and traditions of the region. Laden with Kinnauri topis as souvenirs, we set our sights on our next destination: Bahu, Jibhi.

As dusk settled in, we finally arrived in Bahu, our bodies weary from the day's travels. Exhausted but content, we retired to our accommodations for a well-deserved rest, surrendering to the embrace of sleep after a satisfying dinner.

The following morning greeted us with the gentle warmth of the sun, infusing us with renewed energy and a sense of serenity. Lounging lazily, we decided to switch our lodging plans, opting instead for a riverside retreat in Tirthan Valley. Little did we know, this spontaneous decision would turn out to be the highlight of our trip.

Upon reaching Tirthan at noon, we found ourselves captivated by the tranquil beauty of the river flowing beside our property. Eager to unwind, we ventured to a nearby alcohol shop for some refreshments, but quickly learned a valuable lesson about bargaining for fruit wine. A humorous* (*in hindsight) exchange ensued as we returned the overpriced bottles and secured a better deal nearby, a moment of triumph and amusement shared among friends.

Back at our riverside haven, we indulged in a feast fit for kings, accompanied by rounds of card games, heartfelt conversations, and the comforting glow of a bonfire. As the night wore on, we savored the simple pleasures of life, from the taste of ice cream to the warmth of friendship.

With morning's light, it was time to bid farewell to Mohit, Kriti & Nikunj as they set off for Delhi. Dropping off Deepika & Saurabh at a scenic point for a hike nearby (Chhoie Waterfall), Kshitiz and I embarked on the final leg of our journey, returning home to Manali.

Reflecting on our adventure, we realized that this trip had been more than just a vacation – it was a much-needed escape from the hustle and bustle of daily life, a chance to reconnect with nature and each other. As we drove back home, hearts full of memories and spirits rejuvenated, we knew that this Himalayan adventure would remain etched in our minds forever.