Architectural Trip to Modhera, Patan & Lothal

There is an opening in the ceilings above the landing which allows the light and air to enter the octagonal well. However, direct sunlight does not touch the flight of steps or landings except for a brief period at noon. Hence some researchers say that the atmosphere inside the well is six degrees cooler than the outside.

Another remarkable feature of this stepwell is that out of the many stepwells in Gujarat, it is the only one with three entrance stairs. All three stairs meet at the first storey, underground in a huge square platform, which has an octagonal opening on top. The vav is a spectacular example of Indo-Islamic architecture and design.

The harmonious play of intricate Islamic floral patterns seamlessly fusing into Hindu and Jain symbolism embody the culture and ethos of those times. All the walls carved by ornamentation, mythological scenes along with everyday scenes of women churning buttermilk, dancers accompanied by musicians, women adorning themselves and a king sitting on a stool. Fascinating to many visitors is the Ami Khumbor (a pot that contains the water of life) and the Kalp Vriksha (a tree of life) carved out of a single slab of stone.

There is a belief that the small frieze of navagraha (nine-planets) towards the edge of the well protects the monument from evil spirits - Sourced from net), I had included it on first day, because it was on the way to Modhera around 10 kms from Ahmedabad.

Architecturally beautiful, Vav was actually "wow". We clicked some pictures, descended till base and climbed back, sun was shinning brightly by then, no traces of rain or pleasant weather. By 11.00 am, we headed back to the coolness of the cab. On the way to Modhera, we saw many Pani Puri stalls, decided to halt and taste it. Unfortunately, it was not upto the mark.

We reached Sun temple in the noon. This temple is dedicated to Sun God, located on the bank of Pushpavati River. ( In 1026, the temple was built by King Bhimdev of the Solanki dynasty believed to be the descendants of the lineage of Sun God).The temple encompasses three different yet axially-aligned and integrated constituents. As per the Konark Temple, this shrine is designed in a manner, so that the first rays of the Sun cast on the image of the Lord Surya. Erected on a high platform, the Temple appears majestic with its grand structure.

However, the spires are out of the scene, but the 'Toranas' (Archways) that lead to the main halls overshadow the absence of spires or shikhars. The exterior walls are engraved with intricate carvings, boasting about the mastery of art in those times. Every single inch of the structure is covered with the sculptural patterns of Gods, Goddesses, birds, beasts and flowers.

Actually, the Sun Temple is divided into three parts namely Surya Kund, Sabha Mandap and Guda Mandap. - Sourced from net).

We left Sun temple by 1.00 pm. At the junction, turning towards Modhera, there was a nice restaurant called Amber Hotel, suggested by driver, we had our lunch there at 1.15 pm.

It is oriented in an east-west direction and combines all of the principle components of a stepwell, including a stepped corridor beginning at ground level, a series of four pavilions with an increasing amount of storeys towards the west, the tank, and the well in tunnel shaft form. More than five hundred principle sculptures and over a thousand minor ones combine religious, mythological and secular imagery, often referencing literary works. Rani-ki-Vav impresses not only with its architectural structure and technological achievements in water sourcing and structural stability, but also in particular with its sculptural decoration, of true artistic mastery.

The figurative motifs and sculptures, and the proportion of filled and empty spaces, provide the stepwell's interior with its unique aesthetic character. The setting enhances these attributes in the way in which the well descends suddenly from a plain plateau, which strengthens the perception of this space. - Sourced from -http://whc.unesco.org/en/list/922)

We hired a guide (Rs. 200/-) to understand the intricacies of the structure. The different layers, purpose and history behind the grand Stepwell. The pillars and walls are beautifully and minutely carved. Some of these were inspirations for Patola saree designs. We spent some time at the bottom of well to get relief from the glaring sun. I wanted to go further to visit Sahastralinga Talav, which was 1 km ahead from this Vav.

But girls were too exhausted to move further, dropped the idea and reversed back to Patola House. Here, we saw the history of Patola, old fabrics, manufacturing unit of sarees on ground floor. On first floor, we met an artisan, who showed us delicate beautiful paper carvings. Some were carved by his ancestors and some by him. We left Patola House by 5.30 am.

Reached Ahmedabad late in night by 9.30 am. One of the girl fell ill, hence dropped the idea of going out for dinner. We called dinner in the hotel room, fell asleep.

After observing those, we went around to explore the remnants. For laymen, it would be just bricks and walls.

There are signage to understand, what might have existed under those mounds. Due to Rain, the dockyard was filled with water, looked like pool. There was earthen pot furnace, Acropolis, Cooking blocks, Drainage system, Well, Lower Town and Cemetery.

Came back to hotel, requested for 2 hours respite, since we had checked out in the morning. The staff was very cordial and allowed us to stay for 3 hours till 10.00 pm (Rs. 600).

Our train was at 11.25 pm. We boarded the Duronto and were back to Mumbai by 6.00 am in the morning.

P.S. There are tickets in all these place ranging from Rs. 5 to 20/-.