Murmansk is the largest city above the Arctic circle. During the World war it was the most important port for the American convoys that would arrive through the Arctic Ocean. It went on to become the most important naval bases during the Soviet era and in the modern day it is an important fishing port and mineral ore transportation port.
How to travel to Murmansk?
From India one can fly to St Petersburg and from there to Murmansk.
We had departed from Kaliningrad at 1230 hrs and arrive at SPB at 1600 hrs. Due to the Russia - Ukraine crisis the flight took a longer sea route instead of crossing over European countries. We were tired and didn't want to push our limits any further and took the smart decision to have a night halt at Park Inn by Radisson hotel. very conveniently located right across the exit of the airport.
Our flight for Murmansk took off at 1130 and we reached our destination at 1345hrs.
We hired a taxi at the airport (1000 ₽) checked in to our very comfortable and aestheticAirbnb.
It is advisable to get attached with a tour operator as they can hook you up with English speaking guides and make your trip to the outskirts and far long areas more comfortable.
Why should Murmansk definitely find a place in your Bucket list?
1. Aurora Hunting
At 2030hrs we drove (with our 4 year old) around 40 kms out of the city (Temperature -26 deg and dropping with every Km) for the Aurora hunting tour. If money and being accompanied with kids is not a point of concern for you consider spending a night in the Aurora Village further out of the city.
Needless to say do not underestimate the cold the winds the chill. Forget what I have talked about in my previous write ups on the Russian winter as I had experienced in Moscow and St Petersburg. This was North Russia in all its glory 10 notches colder than anything else Russian I had seen. You will need to wear everything you have, everything I have written about in my previous posts. DO NOT COME UNDER PREPARED or you will lose a toe!
2. Our tour manager advised against visiting Teriberka, since it was a cold and harsh day (-25 deg)with a risk of the roads being closed due to snow storms and zero visibility. However, after 1400hrs the sun seemed to smile on our luck and we made it to the husky park.
Our evening was spent walking around the city and dining at the White Rabbit Cafe.
We attempted the trip to Teriberka (The last village before the Arctic Ocean). We had a mini adventure in this one. There was a governmental notification on the likelihood of the roads to this forward village to be closed. We took the risk and drove in the direction. I literally experienced the change in the landscape, I was amazed at nature and overwhelmed at how beautiuful the tundra can be as long as you are in the car and how it can be the most cruel murderous beauty if you were to be abandoned in it for even a few minutes. I was instantly transported to the memory of when I had read about The Czars and the Communist leaders of Soviet Russia sending away non compliant citizens to Labour/Punishment camps in Siberia. Coming back, as luck would have it, The mightyArctic Ocean was not calling upon us to visit and so we couldn't.
Strong winds were blowing the snow like sand in desert storms, and making it difficult to drive not just due to visibility issues but quick piling on of the snow blocking the road ahead.
On our return to the city we did a city tour. I will list the important must visit points of significance.
1. Memorial Complex - Murmansk was heavily bombarded and largely destroyed during the World war but the Germans did not succeed. Due to the harsh weather and the fierce resistance the German army had to retreat. Murmansk received the title of the "Hero City"
2. A visit to the Lenin Nuclear Ice breaker is a must. You can even tour the inside of the ship. It was the first nuclear powered ships and mostly cleared the ice for Russian Cargo ships and was involved in many Arctic expeditions.
3. The World War 2 Memorial - There is a small World War 2 memorial not far from the Lenin Ice breaker . An ode to the Hero city that put up a brave front against Nazi Germany.
4. The Alyosha Monument- The monument of the soldier Alyosha stands 35 mt tall (the 2nd tallest statue in Russia). There is also a tomb of the unknown soldier in the vicinity. This is a must visit site as you cannot miss the beautiful vie over the Kola bay.
In the evening while my husband and daughter rested in the apartment I set out to walk around the city and explore it once more.
5. The northern most McDonalds and the tallest building in the Arctic Circle are located in Murmansk.
On this day we visited the Kirovsk Ski resort, Snow Village and the Mining museum .
1. The Bigwood Ski resort is good for both Beginners and Professionals. You can get gear on rent and lessons with a trainer. Children and adults can both avail these facilities. There is a big canteen in the resort where you can get refreshed.
2. Snow Village - This is a fascinating magical place that will transport grown ups and kids to the world or fairy tales and mystical lands. Snow village is built every year from fresh snow on a new theme. This year it seemed to be fairy tales.
We happened to spot this carving of Goddess Saraswati and it excited us to no end.
A fish captured in sculpture
An outdoor ice sculpture, one from an array of many.
On the last day we split ways and while me and my daughter went to the Sami Park, my husband went to the White Sea.
1. Sami Village
One of the most popular things to do near Murmansk is to visit a Saami Village. The Saami's are the indigenous population of this region. They were once nomadic reindeer hunters in the Tundra. Their civilisation was destroyed during the Soviet time.
You can visit the Arctic Zoo and see many animals like rabbits,
You can pet the reindeers and feed them in the Reindeer
Tourists can enjoy Reindeer sledges and Snowmobil
2. The White Sea
The White Sea is famous for its rich wild life. During the winter its covered in ice. However it has strong under currents. During the summer one can spot Beluga Whale, Seals and various species of geese, sea gulls and ducks.
On this day we took a flight back to Kaliningrad from Murmansk through SPB. (Take off time -1230 hrs, Landing - 1830)
IMPORTANT NOTES
1. Accommodation
In the current scenario when Airbnb and other popular websites not working in Russia, it is highly recommended that you download the app Ostrovok.ru (https://ostrovok.ru/?sid=d852aba1-6847-4c45-add7-f35c6d14fd0f). This website/application will present with you with all available options of Hotels, Apartments , Apart hotels. In case you want the autonomy of a kitchen, washing machine, etc out of need (travelling with kids or aged) or enjoyment it will be best to consider booking an apartment. Murmansk has no Indian restaurants and this might be dis satisfactory to the vegetarian palate.
2. Food
A) Where to eat in Murmansk .
2 restaurants that we really liked are - The white Rabbit and Tundra.
B) Since we were travelling with a toddler who needs her dose of normal Indian daal Chawal and paratha sabji frequently. I had made the following preparations. I hope this helps anyone looking to travel long distance.
(i) Prepare frozen parathas. There are enough recipes on the net for travel friendly frozen parathas. You will not find whole wheat flour in Murmansk only ready made breads, wraps and refined flour.
(ii) Prepare the tadka that you can use to prepare Daal or vegetable using Tomato, Onion, ginger, garlic and spices like Cumin, Turmeric, Salt (Also provided in the Accommodation, etc.
Use the prepared masala to cook any daal or Vegetable. In this picture I simply added a spoon on the tadka to the pan along with a boiled potato
If you are travelling from India please consider carrying ready to eat/microwaveable MDH food packets. The Vege options available here mainly revolve around - Shawarma/ veg roll, fries, breads, stuffed buns with a sweet filling or cabbage/potato filling, salads, soup. You can stock up with fruits, bread, eggs, butter , noodles, muesli, etc from the local grocery super market "Pyaterochka".
3. Tour Guide
Here is the website link of 2 trusted tour operators whose services have been tried and trusted by us and a few of our friends.
A) Murmansk English Guide - http://murmanskenglishguide.com
B) Travel Koleso- https://taplink.cc/travelkoleso
My conclusion is that Murmansk is an excellent budget alternative for your Arctic Adventure that will cost you much more in neighbouring Scandinavia. Murmansk is the gateway to the Russian part of Lapland. Just bring enough warm clothes and you are good to go.
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