Christmas is associated with twinkling lights and glittery nights and is one of the most widely celebrated festivals in the world.
My fascination with Christmas and its resplendent markets goes long back when as I child I would watch old English classic movies which would portray the delight of children visiting decorated shops and spending the few cents that they had, on buying Christmas candy and gifts for each other. Well, one such movie is the 1949 adaptation of Louisa M. Alcott's novel, "Little Women".
The portrayal of tiny cobbled streets adorned with lights, enclosed by merchant shops with candies popping out of windows and Christmas trees accessorized with bells and ornaments, the aroma of freshly brewed coffee infusing the chilly air is what led me to Quebec city for my Christmas vacations. A quaint little hamlet situated at the foot of Cap-Diamant, which is on the eastern edge of a plateau called the promontory of Quebec or the Quebec hill, this town is a remnant of its French inhabitants and history. Given its hilly landscape, the charm of this old Quebec town is enhanced by numerous churches, narrow cobbled streets, quaint antique shops and cafes and stone houses that take you back in time to 18th and 19th century Europe. This old Quebec town is truly a relic in itself.
PLACES TO VISIT
Every town has a landmark or prominent structure that uniquely identifies its presence. For Quebec city it is the enchanting Fairmont La Chateau Frontenac. The view of the colourful European style cottages, restaurants and boutiques housed in Old town Quebec is overshadowed by the towering Fairmont La Chateau Frontenac with a terrace that gives you a splendid view of the town below. It is the world's most photographed hotel.
This hotel has been running since 1893 and its majestic design takes you back in time. The hotel itself carries it with numerous tales from history and of the railway companies in Canada in the late 1800's, who built it. The Dufferin Terrace, on which this hotel is situated, is famous for different activities and festivals. In winter, this site serves a popular tourist site with toboggan slides, running since 1884. A cafe suitably located on the same terrace has been serving the most fragrant coffee and bakery products for years.
The Old Quebec Funicular is a funicular railway in the Old Quebec neighbourhood of Quebec City. It links the Haute-Ville (Upper Town) to the Basse-Ville (Lower Town). The Upper Town houses the famous Notre-Dame Church while the lower town is where the Christmas market spreads out in the colonial era Petit Champlain. The lower town is famous for the port from where the ferry plies across the St. Lawrence river along with the Museum of Civilization. The cost of this Funicular is 3 CAD, one way. Alternately, one can walk down using the oldest staircase in Quebec, the Breakneck Stairs. Originally, named the "Champlain Stairs", they were constructed in 1635.
The Lower Town of Quebec is the star attraction during Christmas. Named after Samuel de Champlain, who founded Quebec City in 1608, this commercial hub is buzzing with tourists and locals who love visiting its numerous boutiques, artist retreats, shows, cafes and restaurants, studios all of which offer a great shopping experience. It claims to be the oldest commercial district in the whole of North America.
Every Christmas the Lower Town is transformed into Santa's winter wonderland with each shop ornamented with Christmas trees. This lasts from the end of November to mid-February. As snow clings to the few stored plastered stone homes with dormer windows and gabled roofs and puffs of smoke float above large chimneys and firewalls, one forgets that one is not in France. From Santa's sleighs to his cabin and to Santa himself, this market has everything. The tiny boutiques house innumerable gems of authentic Quebec and French culture with maple syrup delicacies topping the list. Other treasures include souvenirs made from precious stones and jewellery, Québec-made boots and moccasins, sculptures, and Québec terroir products.
Don't forget to pick up some sweets and baked produce from the bakeries and cafes interspersed in the markets, especially maple syrup candies and decadent fudge.
As dusk sets in early in winter, the lights are turned on, and the market transforms into a fairy-tale town. One cannot miss walking through this town at dark or standing on top of Dufferin Terrace and admiring the lower town.
The relics of history in this square is palpable. Christmas is suitable enhanced by the church choir singing melodious carols all over town, especially at this town center. The town center reminds of the design of European towns and is a focal point of activities during Christmas. During the Christmas week, every evening the giant tree situated here, is lit and most beautifully decorated and witness by thousands of tourists who flock to this old town. Laid out in cobblestones, the square is encapsulated by stone houses and 400 years of French History.
Cathedral-Basilica of Notre-Dame de Québec is the oldest church in Canada constructed in 1647. This church has twice witnessed bombardment and fire from British invaders.
The church carries with it a neo classical theme with two asymetrical towers, beautifully painted stained glass windows, three Casavant organs, and the chancel golden sculptures. A splendid baldachin appears to float above the main altar as it was ingeniously designed to be supported by the chancel walls and stands on sculptures representing angels.
Every Christmas, this church is the center-piece of attraction and has several masses on the 24th and 25th December including the famous midnight mass, all for free.
The land is the site of the Battle of the Plains of Abraham, which took place on 13 September 1759 between the British and the French. Part of the Seven Years' War, on that date, British soldiers under the command of General Wolfe, climbed the steep cliff under the city in darkness. The French were taken by surprise and were defeated within 30 minutes due to a single deadly volley of musket fire.
Today the Plain of Abraham, is a vast park frequented by tourists along with the citadel and a museum that is dedicated to the history of this war. The park offers for a great hike with the view of the St. Lawrence river. It is decorated with well-laid out parks such as the Joan of Arc Park. If history and wars fascinate you, it is worth visiting the museum and the citadel complex. Though entry to the plains are free, visiting the museum and the citadel interiors requires a ticket. All this is within walking distance from the Dufferin Terrace. During winters, it often stays frozen for days and weeks at a stretch and resembles the largest winter landscape one would have probably seen.
Standing tall and mighty over the Montmorency River, is the majestic and gigantic Montmorency Falls at a height of 83 m and taller than the more popular Niagara Falls.
Whether it is crossing the suspended bridge to the belvedere or taking a cable car up close to the falls, the enormous power of the gushing river as it drops down the cliff, is a sight to behold. Adding to the charm, the fall freezes in winter as vapours rise from the ice. In the summer, you can have a picnic at the historical orchard . There is also a 487-step of the panoramic staircase down to the falls.
Several day trips take place from Quebec city to the falls, situated at a distance of roughly 12 km from the city center. If you want to cut down on expenditure or prefer to visit the falls at you own leisure, you can catch the local bus, 800, that runs from Gare du Palais station to Brideau, which is just a few hundred metres from the falls. The park functions fully in the summer month with different attractions such as cable car rides and zip lining and a paid entry.
Besides being a replica of an old town in France, which is tranformed into a magical Christmas wonderland, this town has also some iconic historical places and a giant waterfall.
HOW TO GET THERE:
By flight : Quebec City Jean Lesage International Airport, 16 km (10 miles) away from downtown Quebec City. Direct flights from many major cities in Canada and US are provided to Quebec City such as Montreal, Ottawa, Toronto, New York and Chicago.
By train:
VIA Rail Canada
Daily VIA Rail Canada services operate between Toronto, Ottawa, Montreal and Quebec City.
By bus:
Orleans Express
Orleans Express Coach Lines provides daily service between Quebec City, Montreal, and other destinations in the Quebec province. The buses arrive at Gare du Palais Bus Terminal.
PLACES TO STAY:
LUXURIOUS
1. Auberge Saint-Antoine is a unique mix of the old and new, with modern furnishings juxtaposed with its rustic stone walls . The hotel, itself, resembles a museum.
2. Hotel Le Germain Quebec is surrounded by boutiques and antique shops.
3. The Hotel Manoir Victoria sits among dozens of restaurants and shops and is within easy walking distance to many Old Quebec City attractions.
4. The Hilton Quebec is located next to the Parliament Building. This clean, modern hotel has full amenities and services, including a heated outdoor pool and sun deck, which are open year-round.
BUDGET
1. Le Chateau de Pierre is a reliable budget hotel in the Old City. Each room is decorated with a unique charm and many have excellent views of Château Frontenac.
2. HI hostel Quebec - Situated just a few hundred metres from Dufferin Terrace, this hostel is the best budget option and gives you the option of staying in an eight-bed six-bed, four-bed or even a private room. This is a personal recommendation as this hostel not only has a kitchen but also has different activities and guided tours that help you interact with like-minded travelers from different countries.
Other hostels : Auberge de la Paix Quebec, Auberge Jeunesse LouLou's Backpacker Hostel, La Belle Planete Backpacker Hostel!!!!
It is advised to book your hotel/hostel at least a month in advance during the Christmas and New Year Season.
Here are some glimpses of the night market in old town Quebec during Christmas.
So, explore this quaint picturesque town, a true remnant of traditional European customs and traditions and celebrate Christmas to its fullest. Happy reading!!