Bhutan - Land of Thunder Dragon

Besides the stunning natural scenery, the enduring image of the country for most visitors is the strong sense of culture and tradition that binds the kingdom and clearly distinguishes it from its larger neighbors. Bhutan is the only Vajrayana Buddhist nation in the world, and the profound teachings of this tradition remain well preserved and exert a strong influence in all aspects of life. Due to its pristine environment and harmonious society, the tiny Kingdom of Bhutan has been called “The Last Shangri-La”.

Bhutan is a unique country both culturally and environmentally. Perched high in the Himalayas, it is the world’s last remaining Buddhist Kingdom. It has developed the philosophy of Gross National Happiness; where development is measured using a holistic approach of well-being, not just based on gross domestic product.

Rice Farming, Hydro Electric Power at Chukha is effectively practiced and plays a major role in the development of economy. The land is fertile but still the place is considered as a third world country although it doesn’t look like. In addition, the current generation receives free education, and all citizens have access to free, although rudimentary, medical care. The sale of tobacco products is banned, you will not find any Pan shops on the streets and smoking in public areas is an offence punished with fines.

The idea of Bhutan by Indians is dirty, litter everywhere and Bhutanese stink since they don’t have bath due to cold but it was an overall contrasting experience for me.

You will witness the cleanliness as soon as you enter Phuentshoeling gate for Permit. Bhutanese are extremely coordial and nice people dressed all the time in their traditional Gho & Kira for men and women respectively. They have a great respect for Indians but do not like the idea of Indians being maximalist travellers.

The land is occupied majorly by local Bhutanese and few Nepalese Gurkha Immigrants – some of whom had been in Bhutan for generations, many were expelled or fled as stateless persons to refugee camps in Nepal. All the Nepalese need to apply for a Visa to enter the country.

The country is ruled by Oxford & Boston educated King King Jigme Singye Wangchuck whose brainchild is GNH stands for “Gross National Happiness” and is defined by the following four objectives: to increase economic growth and development, preserve and promote the cultural heritage, encourage sustainable use of the environment, and establish good governance. While the concept of GNH receives much international praise while viewing the TED talks by their Prime Minister and is a major draw for tourists, potential visitors should be aware that the idea is very much in its incubation stage, and there is very little evidence of GNH in the country itself but the Bhutanese have great respect for their king in their talks & public display with the portraits hanging in every shop and government offices.

Thimphu was cold & Paro was colder during my visit with the temperature ranging from 8C to -4C in respective places. The local heaters helped us cut through the night.

Indians don’t need a visa but require a permit to enter the country. You will not require a permit if you would like to stay in Phuentshoeling but a permit is required to enter Thimphu & Paro which can be made at Immigration office in Phuentshoeling. A permit to enter Bumthang & Jakar and eastern Bhutan can be obtained at Thimphu Immigration Office. Indian currency is widely accepted but you may exchange it with local currency (Ngultrums) on a safer side. 1 INR = 1 Ngultrum as on 22 October 2018. Travel from Phuentsholing to Thimpu is around 5 hours by road in a sharing taxi through a newly made highway. The road is mostly mountainous, and must be avoided by those with fear of heights.

I took a train from Siliguri, the gateway to North east till Hasimara and then a tuk tuk auto till Phuentshoeling & a sharing cab till Thimphu. If you have a Nepalese speaking wife traveling with you, things get more easier and cheaper as the locals are fluent in Nepalese.

As soon as you enter the Thimphu highway, Toyota Hilux, Isuzu Trucks with BT or BP nameplates greet you. You know you are in Bhutan when there are no traffic signals & yet people follow the zebra crossings & traffic rules diligently. 

Thimphu has cultural and office buildings while Paro is a remote area landscape with farming practised extensively. My only inspiration to visit Bhutan is to pay a visit to Taktsang Lhakung Taktsang Monastery (Tiger’s Nest). This is one of the most important Buddhist sites in the world, and Guru Rinpoche visited here in the 8th century on his second visit to Bhutan. It is the most recognized and visited monument in Bhutan. It is believed that he arrived on the back of a winged tigress, hence the name, Tigers Nest. The temple is built on a 1,200 meter cliff and was built in 1692. The hike up to the Tiger’s Nest can be very strenuous and you can rent a horse to bring up the mountain for about Nu 600 but I chose to hike the 10Km through the mountain forest through North West Gateway and walk 1600 steps to reach the monastery. The horse ride is a one-way trip (this is recommended if you are not very fit and may face altitude sickness) and you have to make your way down the mountain by foot. A local guy named Tenzin helped us with a shortcut to reach the base within 20 minutes.

For independent travelers, taxis can be arranged to reach Taktsang Monastery. As on October 2018, a reserved small car will cost you Nu 500 for a round trip and takes about 20 minutes one way from Paro town. The car will drop you at the site and then will come to pick you up at a later fixed time.

You can visit Kyichu Lhakhang Monastery on your way to Taktsang. Hundreds of monasteries (Dzongs) dot the landscape in some of the most pristine and remote areas.

Bhutan pristine environment offers ecosystem which are rich and diverse, due to its location and great geographical and climatic variations, Bhutan’s high, rugged mountains and valleys boast spectacular biodiversity, earning it a name as one of the world’s ten most important biodiversity hotspots.

Recognizing the importance of environment, conservation of its rich biodiversity is one of its development paradigms. The government has decreed that 60% of its forest resources will be maintained for all time through a recently enacted law passed by government. Today, approximately 72% of the total land area is under forest cover and about 26% of the land area fall under protected areas comprising of four parks. As a result, Bhutan offers a wonderful raw and unexploited environment that is generally very much appreciated by international travelers. 35% of Bhutan is made up of protected national parks.
La. The suffix ‘la’ is an honorific, and many Bhutanese feel that their remarks sound too harsh if it is not used, and this carries over even into English. So, don’t be surprised if you hear expressions such as “Yes-la” or “I’m not sure-la”. It just implies respect.

Chillies play an important role in the diet of a Bhutanese. Below are few dishes I tried out at local Bhutanese along with Western cuisine.

Ema-datsi. Ema means chili and datsi is a kind of cottage cheese, so ema-datsi is a kind of spiced-up Welsh rarebit.

Kewa-datsi. A potato, cheese and chili dish.

Shamu-datsi. A mushroom, cheese and chili dish.

Kewa-datsi and shamu-datsi tend to be less hot than ema-datsi; all three dishes are generally served with red rice.

While you are in Bhutan, don’t forget to try Druk 11000 & Druk Lager Beer, a produce of Bhutan.