My one-sided love affair with tigers

Bengaluru and Nagarhole Tiger Reserve were separated by a good 220km and it took us about 6 hours to reach there. We reached there by noon. Our vehicles were thoroughly checked at the entrance and we were briefed by the forest guards about the do’s and don’ts. We knew someone from the forest department who had arranged accommodation for us in one of the Government Jungle lodges.

Gajaraja

As we started moving into the Tiger Reserve we were welcomed by an Herd of Elephants who were crossing the road. When you live in an urban space you are accustomed to Zebra crossing, at max a dog or cow crossing. So Elephant crossing was indeed a spectacle. The Maharaja of the herd was Gajaraja. He was majestic in his stance and starred at us with his sparking eyes. It was as if he was welcoming us.

Maya Mruga

One of my profound recollections of the Indian Epic Ramayana is that of the Maya Mruga episode eventually leading to Ravana kidnaping Sita (in modern parlance).

As we moved deeper into the reserve I saw a Deer that was so beautiful that it stood out from the crowd. It reminded me of the Maya Mruga in the Ramayana but I was no Laxman to go behind it.

We slowed down our car and saw this beautiful creature. A deer's life here is quite difficult especially when you probably have the highest Tiger population density on earth. When you are a Deer no one is dear to you. You never know what is behind the bushes, but when it is showtime you give your best shot. I got a great shot and thank you Maya Mruga for that.

The Safari

At 4 o clock a 4x4 Maruthi Gypsy was waiting for the Safari. I was really excited. I had seen Tigers in a zoo but they are very different from the tigers in the wild. Tigers in the wild were a different breed altogether. We went into the core areas of the Tiger reserve and the rationale for using a 4x4 was evident.

A foul smell started to come from somewhere. The forest guard said that there was a kill. So the possibility of finding the tiger was real. My eyes became sharper, the foul smell became the fragrance of pursuit and it no longer bothered me. In fact I started to like it. A few meters forward we found a pug mark. Pugmarks confirmed that we were on the right track. But we followed it for a while only to lose it.

I was disappointed because we were almost there but not yet there. The sun was in a hurry to go down that day so we ended our pursuit and came back to the Jungle lodge.

Safari Again

That night in the jungle lodge we had discussions and we explored the possibility of going for the Safari for one more time. We contacted the forest guards and they said that it was possible to arrange for a safari the next day.

At the crack of dawn we were on the gypsy crisscrossing across the Tiger reserve. As the first light broke out, the forest was full of life. The warmth of the sun was endearing.

A morning meeting between the elephants and the deer was quite a spectacle. The feeling of coexistence in a forest is often underestimated and some times ignored. We found all animals but the search for Tiger remained elusive.

Reflections

We went on the Safari not once but twice with the hope of spotting a tiger but all of it was in vain. I on personal level was dejected. I felt that the Tigers were arrogant and cursed them for not presenting themselves before us.

One has to be extremely lucky to spot a Tiger. A lot of factors play a part. Summer would be a great time to visit a Tiger reserve as there are higher chances of spotting tigers. But we went there in the month of January.

But I was also happy because the pursuit was exciting, the greenery and purity of nature was infectious, the stillness of the forest inspired stillness within me. My interactions with the Forest guards was extremely fruitful. Their personal experiences was enriching. I learnt a bit about how Tigers roll, how they hunt and their lifestyles.

The Anticlimax

Two days in the wild was a super experience. Now it was time to head back towards Bengaluru. We packed our bags and were loading it into our car. Suddenly Deer's near our Jungle lodge started to bark and ran away (Deer's do bark). We all came out to see what was happening around.

The same majestic walk, the same swag, the same ferocious looks and indeed the same stance. It stared at us as if we were trespassers in his kingdom. Except that it said- "Meow Meow"

A cat is of the same family as the Tiger. The Tiger sent his distant cousin to see us (more likely that a tiger will spot you than you spotting it). The small cat was the messenger of the big cat and the message was clear- "Come again and you shall see me"

So my Elusive search for Tigers continues.............