The much hyped destination, dramatically enough, is worth the hYpE. Before we get onto the climax, heres a five day itinerary to BALI, which believe me, is too short a time to explore the archipelago.
DAY ONE : CANGGU : Landed in Denpasar, wish had dressed down for a sultry soaking airport look, wasnt expecting GOA like weather, common ! Visa on arrival for Indians (costs about 2500 per pax) didnt pinch my pocket. Use the free wifi to first download the apps GRAB and Gojek (you can thank me later). Use Gojek, whereever possible, as its way cheaper. Booked, headed straight to CANGGU(pronounced CHANGGU). Make sure to plan this on a Sunday, so you dont have to miss out LA BRISSA market, dupe of a farmers market, overlooking the beach, it only gets better. Missed out most of it, as its open only from 10am-4pm. Its this vibrant, rustic fervor that you cant afford to miss; brings out the artistic spark in you. You ll end up shopping for tit bits, clothes, jewels, lip smacking food, cigars, handmade soap and the like, while gorging on the local beer, soaking in the aesthetically dreamy decor and the sheer beauty of the place, as is. Post the market, walked on the crowded street to explore eateries, shacks, some more shopping. Headed to the hotel, Paripadi Studio which was a fifteen minute ride from the market. Paripadi, the simplicity with which the space has been utilized, the pool facing the rice fields, overlooking the road; reflects upon their creative sensibilities.
Partying in CANGGU- A lot many places on the list, be choosy and hit the FINNS club. Oh! what a rager, it was !! Top notch music, crowd, food, sheesha, pool, overlooking the beach; not a soul who wouldnt be pleased, right?
Day Two : GILI T/GILi Meno- Dived straight from the club to an island. (Not literally, only metaphorically) Head to Padangbai, book a ferry, two hours of watching pristine hues of all shades of blue, you reach an island with no honks, only hoots. GILI T, step foot onto to be welcomed by horse carriages. Awww !! well, that, or cycle, or on foot. Headed to Kayu cafe, soul pleasing food. Limited veg options but whatever they have, the chef sure knows his thing. I hear, they have a bombay kitchen serving some souful Indian food; on my to do list for the next itinerary. You can pretty much cover the island on foot, enjoy some snorkelling, boat rides or chill at the shacks. We ate scrumptuously and scurried for an even more deserted island, the GILI Meno(boat transfer from GILI T)
Scared to bits, barely saw about four humans on the way to our hotel, in my horse drawn Cinderella carriage, where i pretty much expected a whole kingdom. Our abode Le Pirate Gili Meno, allayed all my fears, and surpassed my expectations. Lovely little huts, with an even little open to sky washroom(do not flush >>>> your dreams & hopes)lush pool, hammocks with surreal sunsets, a movie screening at the beach, ending the day with a chocolate gelato (yeah, total romcom feels)and their hospitality stole my heart. They have private snorkelling sessions that can be booked, missed doing that; for the sheer pleasure of walking along the shore, adding to my sea shells collection and taking my postcard pictures.
Day Three : UBUD : Mind over matter, left the mind over at Gili and headed for an impromtu stay at Ubud. The ferry ride back took longer than usual(about 3 hours).
Had stored energy for some touristy must dos. Had seen so many temples, processions and people doing the morning ritual, religiously, it really piqued my curiosity to see the Balinese culture and architecture. To my surprise, onli 1.69% is Hindu and yet, the number of temples is in sharp contrast to the stat.
Headed to Tirtha Empul, an hour long drive from Padangbai. Hunger pangs kicking in, stopped unexpectedly at the Kawi Resort. A hidden gem, minutes away from the temple, with the most beautiful panoramic view of the jungle, a hearty menu and hospitable people. Definte to be on my next visit.
Tirtha Empul :The sheer size, structure and aura of the temple will mesmerize you. Both men and women need to wear a sarong (they provide at the entrance) and women are required to tie their hair, before entering the temple. its known for its religiously ceremony of dipping yourself in the holy spring water, for purification (Melukat).
Another unplanned pitstop enroute was the Luwak coffee estate. Before you start to cringe, i did not try the POOP coffee, i only saw the process of how its derived. Our guide toured the estate and ran us through the process of growing robusta, arabica, avocados, rosella, a lot many other local tea varieties. it was an evening well spent !
Ubud - Ubud centre, was like getting jolted back into the reality of humans, traffic jams and the city cacophony. To shun the noise, had booked Sania's house, right on shopping street (no pun intended).
To my surprise, it was more of a Haweli, than a house (dont get fooled by the entrance), get ready to be thrown into a time machine. This massive structure, olden style furnishings, intricately carved walls. high ceilings and the greenery; i could have mistaken it for the Takeshi's castle, for all you know. The lighting could have been better and the hosting far better, but nevertheless, it was worth, for awakening my artistic senses.
Step out of the time machine, into a street vibrant with cafe hoppers, shopaholics, live singers and the like, i pretty much enjoyed putting my bargaining skills to test.
Back to my Haweli, where they had a whole menu of spa options. Got a leg spa done, considering i had earned it, having walked a lifetime.
Day Four : Ubud & Tegallalang cute signboard that said "Campuhan Ridgewalk- this way. Half groggy, grabbed a mocha & a croissant (stop judging me, i am on a holiday), set out for what was supposed to be a 2 km walk, turned out to be 5. Meandering through the streets, it was like playing snakes and ladder only to reach to the top. You pass a temple and a waterfall, and thats where the walk begins. Uphill, sun kissed, drenched but determined (i am not really a walker).
You know when a crack appears on your face, unknowingly, you know it was worth it. The place seemed like another world altogether, they have places to stay(wonder, how they built such beautiful places at such heights), some picturesque cafes, shacks on water, tiny stores and spa. For a connoisseur of art, you will come across some unforgettable pieces; a boutique run by a french woman with the most tasteful studio, that i have ever come across, beautiful houses of some well known artists, studios where they have the traditional style of tattooing. All this on the ridge, with a view of open rice fields on each side.
A boutique resort on the way, Kastara in Bukit village,caught our attention and we stopped for avo on toast, with an impressionable view (not showing off, had only that for a veg option).
Having walked a lifetime, had earned myself a leg spa at my Haweli (Sania's house), before the checkout. It was amazing! Walked some more to the over hyped Ubud art market, dismally boring. It had started to drizzle and all i was manifesting was a good Indian lunch to lift up my mood. Stopped for paneer makhni and naan at Bombay Kitchen, superb on taste, not so much on the pocket.
Enough of slow paced life, added some spice into routine. Next destination, high and fly and top of the world, thats how its made me feel. Ladies and gentlemen, welcome to CRETYA Ubud.
The most happening of the partying scenes in Ubud, terraced pool views, rocking music, nets on rice fields, bustling with people. A pool side table drills a hole in your pocket to the tune of 3mn IDR, but, was it worth it ? Hell, yeah !
Day four : Tegallalang : Thrilled to have found a magical stay at Dek's airbnb in in the remote interiors of Taro village, Tegallalang. An hours drive from Ubud market, enroute Cretya, this farmstay offers a jungle view on one end and farm view on the other. The place is a perfect mix of old and new, the old charm of a naturistic view from an infinity swing, an open to sky bathtub, to the newness of a rolling out the bed on wheels, onto the open deck. Its a place, i find myself, at loss words to describe.
A blissful morning breakfast, layered with tea and coffee tasting as the owner wishes to promote the organic produce of the farm to support the farmers. The cocoa, vanilla coffee and rosella tea, surely stood out for me.
This indescribable beauty of the place, inspired me to get a spa done on the open deck, and, yet again, one of the best experiences i ve had.
The location comes with its difficulty of finding a cab, so do plan in advance.
A hot vanilla cuppa,in a shack, amidst a green water pond with grey, yellow and black fishes squirming through like thoughts in my mind, etched as a memoir, I bid adieu to the place.
Day five : Mara Safari : Moving on to the end of the movie, but wait, where is the climax? Its right here at Mara, me waving at the GIRAFFES from my room, feeding carrots to the zebra, and laughing at the roaring lions voice, thinking its recorded; only to find out its as real as it gets to dining with them and hearing them roar even louder.
Waltzing straight out of a Disney movie, my jungle safari with the elephants, rhinos, meerkats, orangutan, lions, white tiger, deer, camels, ostriches, turtles and the parrots, seems dreamy and unreal.
Like someone i met on the trip said, others have built cities in Jungles, Bali has built jungles in cities. Its thought provoking, and while you rattle your brains on what i just said, Bali Umar or not, do visit Bali.