Finally, the itinerary was planned and the bags stuffed with winter wear were packed. And this time, the destination was Azerbaijan! I reached the capital city Baku quite late the previous night from Delhi via an Indigo direct flight. Upon arrival, I checked in my minimalistic, cosy Airbnb which was located right opposite the popular Nizami street. It was the most convenient and prettiest location with all the major city attractions just 10-15 min away by foot.
Next morning, I got up late and had my adrak chai at the apartment's gorgeous balcony overlooking the F-1 Formula race track. Thereafter, headed for lunch later at the Nizami street. I, on purpose, wanted the first day to be very light and breezy.
I stumbled upon a Pakistani restaurant which served Indian food and was dying to have steaming hot aloo paranthas with chai, amidst that beautiful cold and windy weather. Yes, did not have the heart to try anything local the first day plus I was super-duper famished. The restaurant's name was Curry Corner Restoran, and I liked whatever I ordered there. The staff was super helpful as well as they helped me get the local currency exchanged against USDs, and to my surprise, they brought me way better rates than any other local bank would have.
TIP: Don't get your currency exchanged at the airport, as it is very expensive. You may get 10-12 USD exchanged so that you can at least have your cab booked from the airport. Better, if you pre-book it from the hotel/airbnb to avoid last-minute hassle or any unwanted scam.
Post that, I quickly went to a Bakucell store to buy a local SIM. Azercell is another legit option to buy SIM from. Apparently, the SIMs for tourists have gone too expensive in the last 6-8 months. Certainly, the country has picked up immense interest in the affordable international travel category.
I ended the day with a stroll at the Nizami street, had a light dinner at Paul there and then went to Bravo supermarket to buy water bottles (buy big ones to save money) and some basic spices and vegetables.
Today was a full-day tour plan! I had booked a tour to Gabala and Sheki from a tour agency My Tour (they have their office at the Old City) which was barely 5 steps away from my apartment.
We were driven to a complete countryside experience in a nice swanky SUV, where many other tourists from different nationalities accompanied. We took a brief stop at the Juma Mosque, then headed to the Nohur lake at Gabala, and had our lunch at the Nohur Gol Restoran. I found the restaurant's vibe much better than the lake itself. The lake is totally skippable!!
Post our splendid lunch, our group was driven to Sheki, a charming town nestled in the foothills of the Greater Caucasus. Visit the Sheki Khan's palace, the Kish Albanian Church and explore the Caravanserai, a historic inn that once hosted Silk Route traders.
One of my distinct memories of Azerbaijan would be the ancient, small but robust Lada cars moving all across the place, specially in smaller towns. They are still so functional, and gosh!! those machines are just fantastic. I was so much in awe of them.
End the day with exploring halva and Baklava shops at Sheki. You get them at much cheaper rates here than at Baku. I wish I could spend one more day at Sheki, but had to return the same night. Ideally, one should try and stay back at Sheki if you are into historical and pretty towns, considering reaching Sheki eats up half your day. This was one major miss for me in the entire trip!
Rain Gods were in full action today! So, I kept it light, cooked lip-smacking Sindhi lunch at my apartment and kept it low-key. I spent the entire afternoon at Airbnb and stepped out in the evening. I booked a cab via Yango app for the Highland park, the highest point in Baku with a panoramic view of the city. The skyline merging with the Caspian Sea, overlooking the magnificent Flame Towers, the Baku eye, Denis Mall- all of it was absolutely splendid. Try going in the evening as then the Flame Towers are illuminated and can be viewed in its full beauty.
I ended the day with a random stroll around the Baku Boulevard, the Denis Mall to buy chocolates and some nice Turkish coffee, and finally a Georgian restaurant called Xengel Mengel Restaurant right at the ground floor of my apartment. Tried some Khinkali (Georgian dumplings- bigger momos basically!!), Badimcan Ruleti (eggplant walnut rolls) and Nadugi (fresh cheese cones) with some Ajika (sour and spicy tomato-flavored sauce)... More like salsa!!
Got up early in the morning to join a group led by My Tour, and we were all headed to Shahdag for some adventure in the snow. Our first stop was the famous Candy Cane mountains, which in my opinion, are a complete waste of time! You can have those candy colours popping out only if you have a great camera or photoshop skills. With naked eyes, it just didn't do any justice.
Then, we made a stop near the picturesque Qechresh forest in Quba. I enjoyed some hot Çay (black tea) there with a Goy Qutab (herbs with spinach stuffed in a flatbread, just like a parantha). My vegetarian palate thanked the universe. I clearly can't do non-veg too much!!!
Then crossing the charming countryside and cool climate of Qusar, we finally reached the Shahdag Mountain Resort, Azerbaijan's premier ski destination. There was another world out there with snowy views everywhere. I did the popular rollercoaster ride which I found worth every penny. What a thrilling experience!!! Later, I relaxed with a hot cup of coffee with a delicious, huge pizza slice. By the end, we were all tired, frozen, but the trip was amazing. The tour guide, Riyadh is worth a recommendation- as he was the life of the party in both tours for Sheki and Shahdag! Superfun, cooperative and very informative guy!!
Rested well till afternoon, cooked lunch and then stepped out to explore the Heyder Aliv Centre- a remarkable architectural landmark which I personally found very unique and not to be missed at all. The ticket is for 15 AZN. It seems expensive while buying, but by the end it is worth that amount. I ended up spending 3 hours there- so much to witness and soak in. A complete treasure trove for all art and architecture enthusiasts with so much history to it!
This day was dedicated to the last tour of the trip. For a change, I booked it online from Get Your Guide and was accompanied by 3 other people. We started at 9 in the morning and took a day trip to the Gobustan National Park, an hour's drive from Baku. We discovered ancient petroglyphs and the world-famous mud volcanoes, a unique geological phenomenon. Out of which, the drive to the mud volcano site and discovering that phenomenon was the real treat.
Then we moved to Yanardag, the burning mountain where the natural gas fire has been supposedly burning for centuries. Next, we visited the Ateshgah Fire Temple, a historic site where Zoroastrians, Hindus and Sikhs worshipped fire. Every room in the temple takes you back to the ancient times and reminds of Indians' role too in its history. You will see inscriptions not just in Persian, but in Sanskrit and Punjabi too. Must-visit site!!
We ended the day with a visit to the Bibi-Heybat mosque. The serene atmosphere and stunning design of the mosque are worth a mention.
Again, rested till afternoon and after lunch, stepped to walk across the Old city (İçəri şəhər) which was my favourite walking spot in the city. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, its cobblestone streets lined with ancient walls, adorned with vibrant handicraft shops, cafes, eateries, and key landmarks like Maiden Tower, Palace of the Shirvanshahs, İçəri şəhər makes for a perfect pedestrian spot.
The best way to explore a new place is on foot. Specially if it is very walk-friendly! Just pack a pair of good walking shoes so that you can enjoy it to the fullest.
Ended the day with dinner at a Mexican Restaurant- Turco Burrito.
Another relaxed day, where I decided to lurk around the Boulevard Baku, visit the Carpet Museum and cover the rest of the city's vibrant spots on foot amidst a rain-soaked afternoon.
I took a stop for a coffee at this cute, cosy cafe (Kose Kahve) at Nizami street which turned out to be my favorite! The food, the ambience, the staff, the playlist all added to my comfort there. Finally, I concluded the day with my comfort food Aglio Olio spaghetti at the Pizza Inn restaurant, nearby the Fountain Square at Nizami Street.
Packed my bags, went out to buy some pakhlava (the Azeri variation of baklava) and gifts for friends and family, bid bye to some local friends and left for the airport at night with a heavy heart. Absolutely smitten by the gorgeous place and the kind people!
Some Useful Tips & Notes-
1. You may avoid the London cabs outside the airport as they are way more expensive than from Yango or Bolt apps.
2. I found Yango slightly more economical and faster than Bolt. Have the apps downloaded before your arrival itself.
3. Try walking across Baku, as most attractions are nearby each other. Plus the city is too pretty to be explored on foot.
4. Don't get currency exchanged at the airport, as they will give much expensive rates.
5. You may ignore certain touristy places and activities like Nohur Lake, Gobustan Rock Museum, Shirvan Shah palace, Maiden Tower, Baku Funicular, Little Venice. Personally, I didn't find them too appealing to invest time on.
6. Book your stay at/around the Nizami Street for the best vibe and access to everything you need.
7. Azerbaijan is mostly cash-based economy, especially out of Baku. So keep sufficient cash handy.
8. Most people there don't speak English. So, be prepared to use Google Translate often.
9. If traveling in winters, carry a good pair of snow or water-resistant boots and good-quality thermals, specially for places like Shahdag.
10. I somehow found food and coffee expensive there, so if you're a decent cook, that can help you save a good deal of money. It helped me a lot as I mostly rely on vegetarian food too.
11. Azerbaijan can easily be done in 5-6 days. It was my personal choice to have a long, slow trip. If you've got more time, you may plan for Lankaran, Nakhchivan or Ganja as well.
12. Link for e-visa- evisa.gov.az
Expenses Breakup
Return flight from Delhi- INR 12,000 ( was just lucky to get that deal, booking was made 20 days prior to the departure date)
E-visa- INR 2,200 (comes in 3-4 business days)
Airbnb for 10 nights- Approx. INR 33,000
Sheki, Shahdag, Baku tours with entry tickets- Approx. INR 14,000
Food, coffee/tea- Approx. 18,000 (saved a lot because of a fully-functional Airbnb kitchen and of course, my fabulous cooking skills)
Commutation (including airport transfers)- Approx. INR 2,500 (mostly walked around)
Miscellaneous shopping- Approx. INR 5,000
