For the longest time I have desired to go across the border into Pakistan. So much so, that I have seen all the Indo-Pak borders of North India and one in Afghanistan too. I made friends in Pakistan, got the word out, connected with Pakistanis to build a network, and did all I could.
All this started 2 years ago when I first saw K2, the world’s second largest mountain, in a movie “Savage Mountain.” I was hooked and decided then and there that someday I want to be at the base of this savage mountain, if not the peak.
In all these years, I have been told that even if I do manage to enter Pakistan somehow, getting to the K2 base camp is impossible. I don't believe in that. I think if I enter Pakistan, I will figure out a way to get to its base too!
But that is a story for another time, another day. For now, let’s focus on a mini-goal I achieved by visiting Kartarpur in Pakistan.
I had literally no interest in visiting Kartarpur. It is no fun to go only 4 kms inside and that too for a couple of hours. I was simply not interested. But then I spoke to my friend in Lahore and a new plan came up – we could meet there! Yes, Kartarpur not only allows Indians to freely enter their country and visit the sprawling Gurudwara but also give people from both sides an opportunity to mingle with each other!
I loved the sound of that and decided to apply for the permit. Click on this link for registration). So let us get down to the basics:
What is required?
- Passport with at least 6 months validity
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Just click on the link above and fill in the details. Upload the photos of your passport as well as Aadhar card to finish the process. Enter the date of intended travel. Once you fill the form and submit, do save/print the final form to have a record of your application number.
Your local police station will verify your address and other details and the permit will be issued 3 days before your travel date. They will let you know, one way or another, only three days in advance. So make sure you have made the travel bookings. The trains to Amritsar are almost always full.
How to get there?
Assuming you got the permit, don't forget to take a printout of your Electronic Travel Authorization (ETA). You will need this document to enter. Without this paper, they will NOT allow you. You will also have to carry your passport.
There are two ways to get there:
- Train/bus/air to Amritsar: As soon as you arrive in Amritsar, you can take a bus/train to Dera Baba Nanak. It takes about 1.5hrs approx.
As you get down at the bus station, you can take one of the free shuttles to the immigration center. I was very late and couldn’t find the shuttle so I took a rickshaw that took Rs. 50 to drop me to the border.
- Drive: This would be a better option because after 5 it is almost impossible to find a transportation back. I had to hitch a ride with three men. Luckily they were kind and even followed the last bus to Amritsar for 10 minutes to ensure I got it.
At the Indian Immigration
Indian officer: “Akeli
Me: Yes
Indian officer: That is bold of you. Please come back by 5 PM.
Me: yes sir. Do I have a choice?
Indian officer: No.
Once you reach the immigration, the process is fairly simple. You can simply show them your passport and ETA to get the approval slip. There are at least 3-4 checkpoints at the Indian immigration where you have to fill out the customs form and declare the currency you are taking.
The funniest thing that happened was polio drops. They gave me two disgusting drops of polio medication before I left the building. I asked them why I needed this, they told me that Polio has been completely eradicated from India and they don't want us to bring it back from Pakistan.
Once you are done with the process, you can find a battery rickshaw that will take you to the border. From here you walk into Pakistan on foot.
At the Pakistan Immigration
Pakistani officer: Kafi mulk ghoom chuki hain aap
Me: Yes sir, bas aap Pakistan dekhna hai, kartarpur ke aage.
Pakistani officer: Inshaallah,
Me: Ji
Pakistani officer (looking at my camera): Media?
Me: no, sir
After a few more questions, he hands me the slip.
The first thing you will notice once you enter Pakistan is the big smile with which they greet you. I met a few soldiers who were very happy to see me as I was probably the last one to enter the gates of Pakistan that day at 2.30 PM. People usually come in the morning and leave by afternoon. I saw another battery operated rickshaw on that side that took me to
You have to pay $20 to gain entrance into Kartarpur. It is advisable to take the currency from India because the exchange rates in Pakistan are insane. You pay that outside the immigration center and proceed towards getting an entry slip. They will give you a card with a yellow band. You need to wear it at all times.
Pakistan immigration does not stamp your passport. Instead, they issue you an entry/exit slip that you need to hand over on your way so make sure you keep it safe and handy.
As you get the slip, proceed to exit the building and you can board the waiting bus that will drive you to the temple.
You can also walk the 3.5 km stretch which is a plain road and a beautiful one at that. You would especially enjoy crossing the bridge over River Ravi. The approaching Gurudwara looks incredibly beautiful and peaceful.
At Gurudwara
Once you reach the Gurudwara, you can walk around the massive complex and marvel at its immaculate construction. This project was completed in all of 11 months from the scratch, one of the crowning glories of Pakistan and a world record too! It is really praiseworthy, the complex and its management.
What I enjoyed the most was the free interaction with fellow Pakistanis who are more than happy to meet you and greet you! You will feel so welcomed and enjoy their well-known hospitality.
This temple is important to Sikhs because it was the final resting place of Guru Nanakjii. However, what strikes you the most is the fact that people of all faiths are welcome here.
I met my friend from Lahore and his band of friends who travelled with him for more than 80kms to see me. They were so kind and loving that we struck a rapport almost immediately. It was so beautiful, meeting them and sharing a laugh or two in their own land.
Needless to say, don't forget to try the
Summary of important points:
1. The souvenir shops inside the complex are expensive, but you can buy some authentic Pakistani fare. The good thing is, they accept Indian rupees.
2. You HAVE to be back by 5 PM on the Indian side. They drill that into your head when you are leaving.
3. Look for people wearing cards with blue bands. They are most likely Pakistanis, in case you want to interact with a few. When I was looking for locals to use their phones, I inadvertently looked for blue bands around.
4. The last bus leaves at 4.30 PM so make sure you hop on to that one.
5. A $20 fee will be charged to give you access to the corridor
6. The polio drops. Yuck. It is mandatory
7. Do carry your passport and ETA form
8. They do not stamp your passport
9. It is very safe inside, in case you are worried about security
10. You will not be able to leave the complex. On your permit, you can only visit up to the temple and back. You cannot go to other cities.
11. You need to apply for
12. Once you travel, you will not be allowed to travel again for one year (an Indian immigration officer told me this). Pakistan, however, has no such restriction.
13. You can take your private cars and park them in the complex.
14. It doesn’t matter if you are not a Sikh. It is open for everyone.
15. Your phone will receive network, at least I did and I use Airtel
My experience
I strongly recommend that you experience this peace gesture between the two countries. It is perhaps the first time we have been given the opportunity to interact with our neighbors. It is truly an amazing experience because they will welcome you and make you feel so special. You will also see that hate is just a tool that both the countries use to create distractions when it suits them. I loved the people, the beauty of the complex, and of course the smooth process!
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