Terreti Bazar: Kolkata’s Little Chinatown

The very first thought of Kolkata reminds us of those yellow cabs, hand pulled rickshaws, Howrah bridge and not to forget the hustle bustle on the streets, while on the other hand a die hard food lover swears by kobiraji cultets, puchkas, tangra and more.

Your trip to Kolkata is incomplete if you have not explored the city’s hidden food gem and being a die hard bhukkhad during my recent visit to the City Of Joy, Territi (or Terity) Bazar was on top of my list. Kolkata’s own little “China Town”, where the Chinese had settled as early as the 1780’s, and from then onwards they have played a significant role in defining Kolkata’s food scene.

The morning silence at Territi Bazar breaks around five and it comes to live from six to nine in the morning and yes this place can simply satiate your carving for those hot , juicy Chicken Momos, Pork Momos, Shu Mei, Sausages, Prawn wafers and the list goes endless.

I decided to explore this place with my friends and cousins and the Sun Yat Sen Road (named after one of the greatest leaders of modern China), near Poddar Court, is more like a local farmer’s market of sorts with fresh catch, vegetables on either side of this small narrow street.

As you walk down the street you get to see momo containers on both sides, Sausages hung from ropes and you know it’s “the” place for the typical Chinatown Calcutta breakfast. The hot Soup noodles, steamed baozi buns, dumplings in both steamed and deep fried forms everything is served out of make shift stall make for just the perfect options one can get. We decided to get a taste of everything and dug into little bit of everything that was there.

Not to forget that visit to this market is incomplete without hopping into Hap Hing Co, a Chinese provisional opened in 1934 now run by Stela Chen ( she emphasises it’s Chen the Hakka way not Chan the Cantonese way) store sells an assortment of products that include authentic Chinese style homemade sauce, noodles, tea, medicines as well as other products of day-to-day necessity.

The inside of the store is dark and almost on tatters with a single tungsten bulb hanging, with those old huge switch boards and yes to my utter surprise Stela still calculates on an abacus, an art that she picked up from her dad. The cute, chubby lady is a store house of info who feels proud in saying that she has an umbilical attachment to this city and happily shared her experience being a part of the city for almost around 60 years.

This place simply smells good food and do remember to pack some chicken and pork sausages.

Expected damage: Rs 500

Timings: 6 am to 9 am

Location: Tiretti bazar is in the Chhatawala Gully just beside Poddar court near Lal Bazaar police headquarters.